{I am posting this page strictly as info & suggestion for adding a fuse to your power tool foot pedal, optional upgrade to its internal micro switch with a higher amp rated switch. The other convoluted wiring is just what I did in MY shop and do not suggest you do. However adding a fuse if you have one of these inexpensive foot pedals will save it if there's a short or really high load.}

    Rework power tool pedal switch

I now have a pedal switch for my shop. Its rated at 22amp/ 1HP motor-will reach both drill press or grinder. Pedal is plugged into a new outlet that has a switch to send power either to one side of receptacle that pedal is plugged into or directly to drill to use manually. Out let also has a pilot that shows when power pedal is energized & separate receptacle thatís always hot for independent drills light feed. Pedal has a fuse and an pilot light. But itís not what I bought or started out with. Letís start at the beginning....

Went to yard sale, seller had a brand new power foot pedal switch. Several years old in the box, picked up to add to my drill press. $5-score! Its small plastic box-retails for bout $25. (Since found H/F has them for $14-don't know if internals are same) Cool!. My drills switches are on the side-awkward especially in panic to turn off. I had previously add a switched receptacle that drill plugs into that I can more easily reach and kill power while using.
Oops      Oops
New power foot pedal.                                                       Existing switched outlet

Soon as I got home I plugged drill press into new pedal switch then plugged switch into wall, Stepped on the pedal -nothing switch on drill needs to be in on position. Turn on drill then step on switch varoom...NIIICE. Then I turn on light--again nothing- step on switch light comes on, hmmm I donít want the light going on & off with foot pedal.
Easy enough fix, my drill has single power cord but separate switch for motor and light. Iíll just disconnect existing wires to light switch, run a separate power feed so light is independent of drill...this is where it all failed.

    THE FAIL...

I pulled the flush mounted drill press switch assembly out far enough to access to remove existing wires and attach new power cord for light. Noted the wiring was black & red. So I removed the red wire from light switch, ran new power feed to light switch terminal, ran ground to common black bundle as fixture is way up there. Turn light on/off, it works. Turn on drill it works. Reach over & turn light back on..
SNAP! -CRACKLE- POP! POOF!...WTF?

Unplugged everything-double check wiring, paths look correct. Then I actually look up inside drill head....crap. The red and black wires are the end of power cord-I assumed internal wiring was from junction box where color & wire changed-nope. Stuck multi meter on wire ends and checked plug end...Black is Hot, red is ground, good grief. I wired a dead short when both are on. Turns out though I should have checked and verified first, that other than color assumption the motor switch breaks the hot to motor, the light switch breaks the ground to light. Err bells should have gone off when I noted black & red but they didn't. I hooked up new feed hot to ground, ground to hot- double whammy.

Rewired light (as I should have in the first place) disconnecting both leads from light fixture, ran new power cord hot thru switch, ground to directly to light. Now light is completely isolated from motor feed & switch. Turn light on/off it works, timidly with my hand on the main outlet switch I cautiously turn on drill....nothing. Played with drills switch-new pedal nothing. Unplugged pedal, plugged in drill directly-wala it works.

So I fried new pedal- . Disassembled pedal- yep micro switch fried. Dead short it acted as fuse.

    NEW SWITCH IS IN THE MAIL...

Got online to see what a new pedal cost...average $25-$28 for similar pedal for a 2 dollar micro switch, errr. This $5 yard sale special pedal switch is going to get expensive.

Decided try to find a switch and to fix this pedal, plus I want to make some other upgrades to it. Also decided i want option to use pedal or drill normally without unplugging cords so make some changes to outlets.

The pedals factory micro switch is a Cherry D45LR1MD. Its rated at 15 amp - 1/2 HP, normally open, 3/16" connectors. Looking around either retailers had a minimum qty or min order charge.
Somehow I ended up at Newark.com site. Theyíve a bazillion switches-no minimum. I identified switch I needed but noted higher amps available. Checked my drill its rated 15 amp 1 Hp. Ended up ordering a Newark 01N5051 (Honeywell V15H22-CZ100A03-K), its rated at 22 amp & 1 HP!. The trigger lever arm is bit longer, has 1/4" connectors but otherwise right switch, in stock and $2.14. Cool-higher ratings so it wonít be weak link, I might have found one with identical configuration but I can cut the lever. Be here in a few days.

Oops
Old 15amp/1/2 HP verses new 22amp/1 HP internal micro switch.

    MODIFYING THE PEDAL...

In the meantime Iím modifying the pedal. Iím adding a fuse holder with 15 amp fuse to pedal to advert this occurring again and to protect the switch (& drill), itís on a 20 amp circuit. Also Iím replacing the Pedals cord with a longer one I have, also moving cord from the side to same end as its outlet receptacle. As it was cord barely reached front of drill.

Used simple conduit plug to cover old hole, romex connectors for new end mounted cord. I cut a slot on pedal pivot hex head screw once I finally got it out, hex just spun out recess in plastic. I have a pilot light on main power outlet, I've seen others wish they had pilot on pedal. So though Iím not, I will note that the internal micro switch is wired normally open (off), but in the off position the other (unused) terminal is hot. Would be perfect for adding a pilot light, when foot is lifted from pedal the pilot would come on alerting that pedal /drill is energized.

Switch came in, has 1/4" terminal, one of the original wires spade is 3/16" had to change. The lever I cut a bit shorter but I also moved it closer to snap switch. Looking at the switch there are 2 positions for lever pivot, moving pivot closer to snap switch it reacts quicker. Very carefully pry with thinner side up, just enough to pull lever out and insert to hole closer to snap button. Minor but again could be ordered with desired configuration.

Oops
Modified pedal

    ADDING SWITCHED OUTLET...

Also while I was waiting for switch to arrive I added a switched outlet box for drill press. It plugs into existing switched out let that kills all power on the 20 amp circuit in shop. New out let box has a split receptacle-one side hot all the time for drills light, the other receptacle switched using a 3way switch. Switch either sends power to receptacle that pedal plugs into or feeds directly thru a hardwire to drill press (& use its switch to operate). So new outlet switch either selects pedal or drill, allowing me to use drill with or without pedal by flicking switch. Also added a pilot light so I know when pedal receptacle is energized.

WORKS slick. New outlet switch lets me use the drill with new pedal or drills side switch for just quickie stuff. Iíve added a hook on post next to drill to hang the pedal when not in use. New cord is long enough I can use pedal with floor grinder that sets next to drill.

Oops
New switched outlet

Oops
New drill switched outlet box plugs into to original overhead power outlet. The main overhead switched outlet is over top of drill-easily reached. This switch controls all outlets on that circuit, outlet for drill , one for grinder, 1 exterior plug and another that's used for charging . Working outside I can reach the switch if needed.

Had the opportunity to re-drill moms 24 kitchen cabinet doors for new hinges, painful but so much easier being able to have both hands free with the 'new' foot pedal. I like it. Like it alot HOWEVER....

Wiring of new outlet, oops...

DISCLAIMER This is how I did it- copying my design may cause injury or death-DONT . Look at the drawing below, youíll note the drills pigtail & exposed plug will be energized when unplugged from foot pedal due to being back fed from drill. It can and likely will electrocute you sooner or later. Because this drill will probably outlive me Iím going to hardware into foot pedal or if I can find some fail safe way to stop back feed. TBD

Oops
REV 1 using stock drill switch

Ok fixed the back feed...As noted this is only a problem if drills cord is not plugged into pedal and prongs are exposed (like using pedal for grinder) but needs to be fixed. I was thinking relay-diode or some other electrical shamancy wazoo mechanism that Im unaware of. Writing this disclaimer, looking at diagram realized that if I simply replace the drills on/off SPST switch with a SPDT on/off/on (or actual any thing other than SPST) gets rid of any back feed potential. When in drill mode still acts as on/off but when turned on -it disconnects/isolates pedal line. It would select which line is hot but still function as on/off switch for drill-disconnects the other line not energizing both...why didn't this occur to me while I was in there? Got focused on back feed instead of eliminating the reason... Here's a good explanation of switch definitions SPST SPDT DPST & DPDT switches if unfamiliar with the options..

Eureka
Knew there was a reason for documenting this... Other than to share the availability of better micro switch for your foot pedal. Now to find switch that fits and rated high enough....

UPDATE!! couple years later. Rework/repair of drill, I needed to unwire hardwired power-again. Second time, so rewired with a plug and added second receptacle (which I was too lazy the 1st time). Shown on Tabel lift bracket replacement page, but also adding here.
Eureka
Functionally the same, just for my own documentation- drill plugs in verses hardwired.
new switch

Replaced drill press switch

new switch
Found an 15 amp SPDT switch on/off/on at radio shack. The 3 position switch effectively selects which power source feeds motor and isolates them from each other. When switching drill on/off at press it doesn't energize pedal line now and vise versa as wanted, but with the center off position also allows me to turn off input from the pedal in pedal mode without reaching for main power outlet switch. Nice when Im standing there-need to reposition work & not accidentally hit pedal.

Oops

DONE...

Added a large ugly pilot to pedal-just cause. As shown above used the normally on terminal from micro switch. More noticeable on floor that pedal is energized, especially if I forget to turn switch off at drill press.

Cool-though my $5 dollar yard sale find ended up more like $35. May seem a convoluted approach-it was...but now that its done it works well. Have switched power outlet that sends power to drill to use normally or to energize pedal without unplugging cords. Have new switch on drill that allows normal on/off from either power source or interrupts input from pedal. Have power pedal control that's rated for 22 amp, has a fuse and a pilot light. If I choose I can unplug drill from pedal and use pedal for grinder.

Conclusions:

What I would have done differently...now that its done. I realized the fuse I added to protect the pedal micro switch also protects drill, but there is nothing on the hardwired input. So should add another fuse (or maybe small reset able circuit breaker) to the hardwired input wire at switch. Yours may already have something, this drill doesn't. Seems silly to have fuse on one input and not the other. So I'm going to add another fuse & holder on the direct feed side of new drill switch so both inputs are fused.

The new switched outlet box, though I needed another plug for light, by changing the drills switch to SPDT this switching function may have been accomplished more simply., but I briefly think might require a DPDT switch.

I do highly recommend at minimum adding a fuse to your foot pedal-the internal micro switch will otherwise be weakest link and blow if there is any issue. I would also upgrade the internal micro switch as its probably rated at 15amp, unless your drill is rated less (and what ever else you might use pedal for) and could use a smaller fuse. Having pilot on the pedal is also nice. All the other convoluted wiring/outlet boxes unnecessary but does allow use of drill with or with out pedal at the flick of switch. New SPDT switch allows control regardless of input. You could accomplish what I did by simply adding another pigtail to feed drill directly to SPDT on/off/on switch. One plugs into foot pedal, the other into wall outlet. SPDT switch determines which source to use, either manually at switch or from pedal.

Silly stuff I call fun...enjoy

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