Continued table mods
. 2022-original conversion of this table for use for walking foot sewing machine. Sewing machine table rework
While the table serves its purpose it was obvious before I even finished that it really needed to be a bit larger to support material on the left side. Due to limited space drop leaf is the only practical solution. I've never built a drop leaf,and this modified Harbor Freight table doesn't really lend itself to adding leaf so its bumbling along and figure it out as I go.
Few details to work out. Want leaf at least 10". Digging thru stuff on hand dont have anything as thick as table, 1 1/16". Looking at supports to hold leaf up, other than being pricey table top overhangs underneath structure about 4" so using a pre made folding bracket not a bolt on. Just a lot of stuff causing this to be something I wont whip out in couple of hours.
Trying to formulate a plan, too many unknowns/obstacles simply confusing myself. Decided using materials I have on hand is just to start, make and attach the leaf. Then figure out how to support if I can. I'll identify and try to solve issues as discovered hopefully. Otherwise Ill never proceed.
For the leaf I found an old pre made/finished shelf board. Veneered 3/4" plywood. Nice, I dont know what this was for or where it came from, been in the garage for years. Im using. Its 8' long, 8" wide x3/4" thick, banded on 3 sides with 1/2"x3/4" face board.
Material I have 6' piece of 1x2", 2' of 1x4", about 5' of 2x2" and 23" piece of piano hinge.
To get leaf wider than boards 8" and have the banding wrap I cut 20", width of table, off each end. Then cut one to 4" wide so leaf will be 12" wide.
Table placed upside down on work bench.
Joining, though gluing and screwing 1x2 braces underneath to leaf I want to ensure face is flush. I don't have accurate way to dowel but I do have vertical jig for table saw. So Ill run slot thru edge and join with continuous piece of 1/8" plywood. Then add support stringers underneath.
But first before joining leaf halves is attaching to table. As leaf material is only 3/4" thick I thought I'd just add spacer between hinge and leaf. Issue is hinge holes end up right at joint of face band and plank of leaf. Orientating piano hinge at table edge was not working...
Originally on leaf support, if I dont come up with better idea, was to use sliding rods to hold leaf open. So planned 2x2 at edge for rods to go thru. Realized if I push out 2x2 over edge of table it would push the hinge holes onto plywood instead of face band. I could attach hinge on face of 2x2.
Doubtful makes sense but solves thickness difference, screw hole placement and hinge orientation.
Table upside down slid leaf against table top, then used a piece of dowel to space hinge away from table 1/4", attached to leaf. Abandoning using the 2x2 for sliding rod I cut to hinge length. Slid against hinge, then glued and screwed it to underside of table. Then screwed the hinge to 2x2.
Surprisingly that worked out well. Now to try joining the 2 leaf pieces while plotting leaf support.
Ran both halves of leaf thru table saw cutting slot 1/4" deep in edge. Cut a strip of 1/8" plywood. Liberally glued, insert the strip into slots, clamped face of boards to another board to keep flat then clamped forcing halves together. Set aside to dry.
Pondering how to hold leaf open. Looking around on line found several making their own drop leave supports. Mostly under tool table/ garage folding work bench etc. Leaning toward something like this.
With a lose idea of what I'm doing...
Cut under leaf braces. These will also serve as pivot point for support legs. Spaced so end of support legs will match width of table legs in raised position. Tables legs are angled. I had to cut short on hinge side to clear the 2x2 when leaf swung down. Later will add full length braces at edges of leaf past 2x2 to ensure leaf halves stay together. Doubt my 'joinery' is strong enough.
I want the support legs as long as possible to minimize outward force when downward pressure (weight) applied to leaf. Which works to 22" long.
When leaf dropped end of legs will be about 2" from floor. At this point, verifying legs dont extend beyond table legs, discovered left side of table top isn't square to side of table. hmmmm... Not sure when trying to layout how to capture support legs in raised position if this is going to further complicate. (Much later, once table was done& flipped back onto its feet discovered the table top edge I was working off of had been cut-its neither square, straight or at 90°, why stuff off)
As it is I'm stuck trying to make whatever captures the support legs. Thought this would be easy. More thought required. The angle of tables legs, leaf will not raise higher than level.
It's the really locking once raised. If table could be lifted past level then it could drop into brace on table. Like a french cleat. But it wont and not remaking hinge.
Sketched out to help think..
So I'm going to add 2x2 (running out of 1x2) spreader at end of legs, add 1x4 spreader to table that leg spreader will butt to. Then see what I need to do to keep legs from dropping.
Notched in legs spreader & cut 1x4 for table leg spreader. There's another screw going from back side of 2x2 into legs also glued.
And FAIL...
Thought I had it. With leaf leg spreader folded down butting to table leg spreader (as pictured) planned was going to add 1x2 stop across table spreader for leaf spreader to sit on. However rotating legs out the leg spreader lifts 1/2" in the distance it takes to clear stop. Or Leaf needs to be lifted 1/2" higher than resting position to get on or off stop. Not sure how to salvage this....
I had intentionally placed leaf & hinge so when rotated up & level there is no gap between it and table top. IF I cut leaf edge where it butts to table top at hinge, I think maybe 1/8", would give me enough gap to lift leaf high enough to get onto stop. Then IF I can cleat the 2x2 leg spreader and matching stop it would help to contain as that part I hadn't worked out.
All I can do is try..
WOW...
Cut table leaf to get about 1/8" gap, it now lifts like 3/4" above level?, more than enough to lift onto stop. AS mentioned if I could cleat the leaf leg spreader and the stop on table leg spreader would stay up so going to try.
IT WORKS! Back cutting the 2x2 on the table saw was a real challenge but got it. 45° cleat, cut the 1x2 stop also 45°. Cut 1x4 spreader to fit inside the table legs. Glue & staple the 1x2 cleat to table spreader. Clamped the leaf legs in upright position, place the table spreader with cleat engaged and screwed thru table legs into spreader.
Slid table off workbench and sat on floor
Stoked- I really wasn't sure I was going to pull this off. Brain cells were smoking...
Leaf down, adds 1" to width, really takes no more room when not in use.
But we have 12" of added table workspace! It can be dropped so takes up no extra space in shop.
Details TBD. I need to replace the all thread leg pivot bolts with shouldered bolts. Make some simple stops so when leaf raised into position they can be engaged so bumping legs cant jump out of cleat.
The gap between leaf and table ended up excessive. Didn't realize working on table upside down the edge of table had been cut. Its neither straight, square or at 90°, why early on noted stuff out of square. Could just place some card stock in gap, reposition the hinge to close gap. Minor. Except I'm going to take apart. Re-cut the top square. Then reposition hinge.
No I'm no. Its the last 4" that jumps out throwing everything off. Just cut that back, reposition hinge, gap can be closed and leaf can still be lifted to engage cleat.
And no Im not again...
You can see edge cut drifting all over, clearer snip of routed corner. Im cutting back to eliminate the routed edge. Though its the last 4" that are causing stuff to be out of square, its this routed edge that stuff is falling into. Remove leaf & hinge cut table top. Cut off about 1/2" of hinge to reposition, set leaf with 1/16" gap, reattach hinge. No adjustment needed, its working.
However big issue is limiting or supporting the leaf from being lifted. I can see grabbing leaf to position table, raising with too much force or whatever reason. Table with machine weighs 75/100 pounds, leaf resisting that weight could be disastrous, one time. Hmm, I have a lot of nylon webbing and buckles, strapping. They would hold the weight, fold with leaf. Thinking about it that's what I'm going to do. Solve the legs jumping out of cleat, support weight if lifted.
DONE:
Stained and temporarily 'webbed'. Top of webbing wraps table leg spreader. Temporarily just screwed other end to leaf but this also needs a block so not pulling directly on screws. However, Im adding some storage to side of table, another project and likely restraint method will change. This project as far as adding leaf is done. Not sure I could say fun- interesting but we got leaf for increased table top workspace. Cost me $1.43 for shouldered bolts, nuts and washers. Not counting wood, hinge I had on hand. Got to build my first folding leaf (though this project far cry from furniture).
Next....
While the webbing works for now eventually going away, maybe 2 straps outside of legs or something else to restrain like folding metal straps.
Reason is I had planned to staple large piece of 1/8" ply to leaf legs for stability. But Im seeing, as legs are either vertical or at 30° and there is few inches between legs and table in leaf down position, could use this for storage. So another project. Cut a relief into inside corner of legs so that a full length of pegboard can be flush mounted to legs. To side of table add some shelves. But as mentioned another project. Put machine back together.
Add pegboard to Leaf legs and shelves to table Continued
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