New roof, LED ID lights in grill

UPDATE 3 months later...this page shows replaced roof panel and ID lights mounted in grill to satisfy lighting requirements.
Might be legal but driving around without roof mounted lights just bugged me. Bit the bullet to install ID lights on roof using wireless solar lights from CabOverAmerica.com, expensive but no drilling into new roof. See COA cab light install page..

Taken few years ago showing low profile cab lights I installed 2010...now gone

Our truck, 2001 Ford dually is over 80" wide, it legally is required to have cab ID & clearance lights. Recently had to replace roof panel as it rusted out around windshield due to bad glass replacement (scratched) few years ago.

Finally got in body shop to fix. It was leaking pretty bad. I didn't realize how bad it was as all that showed outside of glass rubber was the bubbled paint.

I was really close to attempting to repair my self. After seeing 100+ spot welds they had to drill out glad I hadn't. I'd still be drilling. Looks good, ready for winter.

 Point of this page. New roof no longer has cab ID/clearance lights. Body shop really didn't want to install after market lights and I didn't want Ford 'beehive' ID lights. Plus I dont care for the factory spacing. So I have a nice new shiny non-leaking Ford roof panel sans cab lights.

Quandary is I really dont want to drill the roof for new ID/clearance lights.

Only solution I came up with is there is a company making wireless solar charged roof lights (https://caboveramerica.com/). No drilling or wiring required, however they are very ($400) expensive. Alternative suggestion was made to install ID lights into grill like Ford Raptor and others. Unsure if this will satisfy legal requirements, doubtful, but would be an easy/cheap interim solution. At minimum would give me time to either hard wire lights on roof or spring for the wireless version and feel like I at least made a token effort to comply.

Looking online all kinds of lights can be had but went cheapest I could find that also were perfect size. They are 3 3/4" long but only 1" tall and about 7/16" thick. Fit well under top trim of grill.

FYI
Before beginning Ill mention what the lights mean. Yes the 5 cab lights have a purpose and state something. Like when a rear light comes on means vehicle is braking. The 3 center (ID) lights mean presence of wide vehicle (80" or more), the 2 outer (clearance) lights show width

Excerpt from Federal NHTSA light codes;
Front Clearance Lamps: Required for vehicles (80") 2032mm wide or wider- Show vehicle's width- Minimum 2 yellow at widest point - symmetrical - on the front or near the front - facing forward as high as practicable
Front Identification Lamps (ID): Indicate presence of a wide vehicle- Exactly 3 yellow on the front - center - horizontally spaced 150 mm (6 in.) to 300 mm (12 in.) apart as high as practicable or on top of cab

Which is why I find when folks install ID/clearance cab lights on a less than 80" wide truck just silly. But I don't think most know what the 5 lights mean. Like a flat chested adolescent wearing a sign the says D cup-. Personally I don't like cab lights on a pickup, but its required if 80"or wider. I do though like lights and like the look at night but I don't see the attraction adding them to a Ranger or any truck less than 80" wide. Though some state if your towing a trailer etc that's over 80" you need the front ID lights on truck, kind of makes sense but to my knowledge not a requirement.

Where to start.

Ordered Lights thru Amazon: Partsam #GTCV-0820278536

(5) lights Bolt spacing should work with the honeycomb spacing of grill. Thin enough wont protrude. Smoke lens wont be that visible when off. No modification to grill needed. Cheap $10 for 5 lights.

Once received tested each. I found using a variable power supply they work at 10-11 volts but as powered up over 12 volts they keep getting brighter. I concluded these LEDs aren't regulated so higher charging voltage may burn them up. I installed a simple 7812 voltage regulator on the power lead (behind left windshield trim) to limit voltage to 12V or less. Output of a 7812 is generally about 2 volts less than input (if LESS than 12v) so at 14.4V lights should see about 12V but less than charging voltage lights will still work. Again these only limit voltage to 12v.

Wiring prep

Need to run a running light wire to grill. I want these lights attached to grill but grill needs to be removable without cutting wires. Also so I'm not trying to connect wires with grill mounted. Ran a wire, Green, from inside cab tapping existing cab light green wire behind left windshield trim plastic. It's on a relay triggered by dash switch with manual off switch in line. Green wire source is tied to green cab light wire with 7812 regulator behind left windshield trim.

Note to self: When/if I remount cab lights, Ill need to readdress grill light power as cab light relay is switched, turning off when camper mounted will also turn off grill lights.

UPDATE:

Later, converting fender lights to also use as signals, tapping park light circuit it run right behind grill lights. Realized I should move these grill lights directly to park light circuit instead of cab roof light relay. Removed previous wire from cab light relay at dash to 2 pin connector. Power now directly behind grill & tied to parking light circuit. New power wire from park circuit at front hitch receptacle goes thru 7812 regulator to limit ID light voltage to 12v or less then to the 2 pin plug for grill lights.

Routed to engine bay on top of air dam under hood. I used a 2 pin SAE plug I had on hand. The other 2 plugs are for front camera mounted on grill.

Mounting lights to grill

First I wired the 3 lights together with a lead to attach matching 2 pin plug. Lights will simply be pushed thru the honeycomb of grill leaving wiring inside. The leads were just long enough to match spacing on grill, about 8 1/2".

Well that didn't work. With wires pre attached light wouldn't go thru the half honey comb at ends, wires to short due to length of light.

Had to move lights outward to full honeycombs which involved cutting wires and extending. Spacing now 10" apart. Though had to rewire worked out better to mount, places screws right in corners of half honeycomb.

Fuzzy picture. Soldered on 2 pin plug lead, zip tied to secure. When grill mounted leads simply go up under rubber flap and on top to plug in.

Not too shabby. Anxious to see on truck


Flash on to see lights...

Wow put your eyes out kid...

One concern reading reviews many stated how dim these are?

Not sure, jury is still out. Looks funny to me not on cab. Looks rather Raptorish if not Pep Boyish.
Someone left the crap magnet on...But they serve purpose for the time being.

I don't mind daytime appearance, really not that noticeable. Roof though looks naked...Likely in the future will pursue cab lights.

Trying to get use to this- makes drilling holes in roof more of an option, though these probably will stay. Done for now.

Since I was here...decided to tackle another project. Try to convert dually fender lights to blink with signals.
Blinking fender lights page..

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