Replacing dump valves 2020
And here we are again. Gray dump valve getting very hard to open to point feels like Im going to pull handle off. Black tank has very slight leak thru valve so changing out both.
(1) 1 1/2" Valterra 'Bladex' valve #T1001VPM (5/16" bolt head, 3/8" nut size)
(1) 3" Valterra 'Bladex' valve #T1003VPM (7/16" bolt head & nut head size)
Originally I ended up dropping the Gray tank cover (shown above). While it worked well for access it's really a pain to remove the cover. So Im going to try something else.
I believe if I cut a hole in the tank cover I can access the bolts at rear of valves. Make a cover. The existing tank cover isn't structural, just plastic box. Replacing new 'access' cover. with a few screws should retain boxes integrity.
Second thing is I'm going to try is add a zerk fittings to lube the valve disk and handles. Wont stop from leaking down the road but likely prevent breaking handle- that I want to avoid at all cost. Hoping also makes just opening easier-pretty tight within this compartment and pulling sideways on valve handles not easy.
Looking up from underneath. Need to leave an inch at back edge and along the side for attaching new access cover, its close. Once I had an idea where to cut drilled couple of holes. Slowly cut with jig saw to keep from melting. At rear where saw wouldn't fit used jig saw blade in an exacto blade holder.
And inside compartment showing valves tucked in corner. Physically impossible to get to rear bolts on both valves unless the Gray tank cover removed. This mod addresses.
Whoo whoo!. Again, laying down looking up thru cut floor. Bolt on right 1 1/2" valve now accessible! Bolt on the 3" valve also accessible. Removed the valves. Not near as easy when the tank cover removed and had clear access on 4 sides but doable without to much grief. Minus chore of removing tank cover, stoked. Hopefully goes back together as easily.
Before installing new valves, as mentioned, want to install grease fitting on them. However first taking old valves to shop and open up, verify adding zerk fittings will actually lube valve disk and handle stem.
Bit of persuasion splitting the cap
The top box of valve is hollow that disk slides in. The handle stem only rides in boss of glued on cap. So yes pumping this void with grease will lube both the disk and handel stem.
Also let me see placement for drill/tap for zerk fitting.
Removed cast aluminum handles and throw in the valve compartment. If I ever change valves again order them with the plastic handles (cheaper) and swap.
Making access cover
I had some UHMW 1/8" plastic from Mcmaster Carr, any waterproof material would work. Cut a good inch bigger around than removed piece. Drilled clearance holes for some lath screws. The cover box is also a soft plastic 3/16" thick that will easily accept the screws.
Mounted.
Dropped most of the screws to get the sewer hose tee in place and mark hole. Cut, close but may likely need to re trim the hole once valves are assembled. Access panel!
Valves arrived. Debating on drilling holes for tap as may introduce debris inside. Toying with idea of melting hole thru, nah...
Well order only had the 3" valve-1 1/2" shipped separate? errr
Set on drill press and used vacuum to try to keep shavings from falling in.
Tap 1/4-28. On the 3" used 2 zerk to ensure some grease at shaft. Used super glue as thread sealant. 90° zerk on rear and 45° toward front. I would have used 2 90°s but I need the other I have for the 1 1/2" valve. The 1 1/2" only 1 zerk but its mounted with blade vertical.
Hmm the front 45° is pointing upward as much as picture appears its pointing down? Not sure if this was a good idea. I wanted to lube sides of disk and wiper action of seals. Using old 1 1/2" to place rotation of zerks noted there's a seal embedded on inside of plastic top that handle shaft slides thru. Hopefully not rubber because I used some red water proof (petroleum) grease. Should have use silicone -oh well. wont take long to see if I errored.
Welp 5:00 rest of the order didn't show-pissed. ... cant button up camper...
Day later, the other valve arrived.
Now to install both valves and tee, secure access panel
Drill and tap 1 1/2" valve, Install zerk-grease.
Not as easy as removing but installed thru 'new' access hole. Biggest issue other than crammed in the corner is the way hubs rotated and glued. Handle of 3" rotated so it doesn't hit tank cover but it puts the rear bolt right at rear top bolt of 1 1/2" valve.
Removal easy, just a specific sequence to get in. Both rear bolts in that corner have to go in from tee side so the heads are next to each other, not easy when feeding it with 2 fingers. Otherwise threads will hit other bolt. Needless to say -still not a fun task but at least now i don't need to reinstall/seal the tank cover box (acts as sides of compartment).
Cover installed. ground off tips of the very sharp lath screws. Hole for sewer hose connection now centered at pipe and sized for closer fit. Before looked like was re trimmed to fit actual placement of tee and had like 1 1/2" gap. Course now I get to add a hole. I used that large gap to drop cord for portable solar panel. Minor.
New valves, zerked for lube, new access panel. Also allows for when on the road/camper mounted, working on it if needed as new panel will come off while on the truck, the tank cover box wouldn't. Alls well that ends well. If the seals swell, though I found seal are Buna so hopefully not. Changing out valves if on hand, should now be an hour task. I'd do the zerks again but find better lube.
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