The dreaded Dometic refrigerator "check light" syndrome.

Finally got tried of refrigerator check light -every time you turn around it'd be on. Been doing it for a year and getting worse. Worked fine on 110 or 12 volt, but not on gas. Forums clued me to the "Dino" (Dinosaur Electronics control board) replacement. Couple of other things to check but appears to be fault with factory board or at least intolerant of dirty connections/bad voltage etc. Peace of mind there worth it.
Last few times out camping I'd be out there playing with it trying to get it to stay on. Got to where we were afraid to leave camper more than a few hours. Sometimes it wouldn't stay on at all-other times it'd run all weekend. Then Fridge started not wanting to light at all. So I ordered new board and thermo coupler.

Excitedly after receiving parts I installed. Very simple install. After I installed the board and coupler- went to test- HuH? didn't want to light at all- no spark... well after much checking I finally discovered the ignitor WOULD spark if removed from the holder. Wow those things put out a spark. However when reinstalled it wouldn't spark. Figured out the ceramic insulator was cracked and grounding out the ignitor. I'm pretty sure on some past attempt to fix refer while camping i broke it. Word of caution "IGNITOR IS FRAGILE". What was weird was after refrigerator lit (with Match) - it would relight. I guess when the ignitor got warm it was enough to keep it from grounding. Ran to local RV house, amazingly he had one hanging on the wall. Ran home/installed - WA LA- we've got working refrigerator. Turned it off and allowed thermo to cool down, it'd light every time. I'd blow out flame and it'd relight. Went camping over the weekend and refrigerator ran great. EUREKA

So if your Dometic lights but just goes to "check" randomly-, consider the Dinosaur Electronics replacement board. Things you can check, wire connections-not loose/ corroded, you should see a spark when trying to light, check there's no dirt/spider webs on the ignitor, thermo couple or pilot tube. If it wont light, check there's spark, gas. If it doesn't light at all but will with a Match check the ignitor (or board). If it pilot lights but wont light (OR relight) main burner (no gas) check thermo couple (or board). Another word of caution. If/ when you try to light and there's no spark clicking-the gas (at least on mine) is still there. The gas will build up so wait a few seconds for it to air out before striking a match (don't ask me how I know :-). Better to have flame there 1st and have some else turn on refrigerator.

There's some good info at links below. Easy fix if you haven't broken something else in the meantime like me. No pics on this. its pretty self explanatory install. The instructions are very good. I just put the new board near the old and remove /attach 1 wire at a time.

Don't take my word, visit the forums, #1 recommended fix for the Dometic. They also make boards for some other refrigerators as well.

Side note: Our refrigerator always took a long time to light when the gas had been off a while, though you still need to wait a bit-it lights MUCH sooner now?.

link to dometic pdf at Bryant rv for things you can test service tips etc.
Bryantrvsupport libary- great resource-other docs if you have a different modle or other problems. Also has some owners manuals

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

Link to replacement of heater element on our fridge

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