Add waterproof toilet paper holder in campers wetbath

    Purely a matter of convenience...

    The issue...

    Our T/P roll is mounted to inside of sink cabinet door. Keeps paper dry, out of the way in the wetbath butt....Obviously you can open the door and get paper- or close the door and use the paper. Without getting too graphical, suffice to say you cant do both. Just a pain. That and simply the existing roll partially blocking access into cabinet.

    The solve...

    After years of dealing with this, toilet paper roll on cabinet door, finally addressing. I've seen these for years, the Oceanair Dry roll. A bit expensive, 50-60 bucks so never jumped. Looking for other options-stumbled upon fella selling the Ocean air for $23. As I've not seen much to compare to the functionality I ordered. Was a bit hesitant because the description was "Off-white". Decided didn t matter as long as it works..pleasantly surprised. Its pretty white as far as I'm concerned, not beige or ivory like I was expecting. Cool.


      T/P holder needs 3" depth to recess mount, depending on thickness of wall will determine how much clear behind wall you need. I used the flange moving around on wall to get an idea of where I wanted it. Then verified from inside the closet no interferance.

    Wall opposite the toilet is between bath and wardrobe closet. Removing a drawer I can access the space between shower and wardrobe paneling. The lower half is where propane tank box is. Wall is about an 1 1/4" thick (alot of subtractive measuring to guestimate), 2" between wall and box (plus 2 layers of bubble wrap on box). So there's about 3 1/2" measured from face of shower to box, more than enough room to recess mount the holder, 3" is required. Pushing on the luan paneling there are 2 horizontal 1x2s stiffeners inside wall but well above and below where hole will be.

    So with that its just installing. Wet bath is small. Initially was going to center the T/P holder in front of toilet but realized as the t/p holder still protrudes from wall 3", standing in front of sink you'd be hitting with hips. Just moved it fairly close to sink-that works.

    Taped the supplied cut out template to wall. Hesitated quite a bit. That is a huge hole in our fiberglass shower.... Started with 1/2" split point self centering bit, drilling the corners of cut out then use jigsaw to connect. Drill first corner hole. Drill went thru the 1/4" fiberglass then hit something before it went thru opposite luan paneling-which is an inch away? You can press on either wall and they flex so there isn't blocking, what the heck. Probed around, seems to be another layer between. Went ahead and punched thru then thru the closet paneling. Inspected some more, yup there's a 1/8" luan panel between shower and closet. Backing for the fiberglass? except its a 1/4" away. Unknown.Verified that I did have needed 3", drilled the other 3 holes. Taped the bottom of saw so not to scratch the fiberglass and cut out the hole.

    Planned was adding blocking around the hole in hollow wall. One for rigidity so when wall flexed seal isn't broken around T/P holder, second is screwing thru fiberglass into wood instead of just the fiberglass.. The extra paneling inside just means a little more work to block. Clean up the hole a bit (intentionally cut on the small side) so T/P holder fits in.

    Fortunately the gaps between the panels are still nominal material thickness. So cut some 1/4" ply and some 1x2's strips to box it in.

    Profusely mopped everything with wood glue and slid in the pieces. Fairly snug so they stayed put until I can screw the holder in. Drilled 11/64" clearance thru the fiberglass then 3/32" pilot holes thru all the wood. Using longer screws than what was supplied but just shy of wardrobe paneling. Mounted the T/P holder so all the glue is clamped and let it set overnight. Tomorrow Ill remove, clean up the hole and seal wood. Then its caulking the holder and reinstalling.

    But pretty stooked with the holder, played with it a while. The T/P roll holder is gear driven. When you close the door it winds the paper inside, when you open the door it spools the paper back out. Kinda cool.

    Next day.. got the whole cleaned up ready to install the holder. However been a few hours, all I see is the huge hole and easy access for opportunity to relocate the water pump switch outside the cabinet. Pondering...

    Meantime I will add an FYI.

    Looking at the instructions I noted the last step says 'caulking from the back'. How do you do that? and why?

    Holding up to light...OHHH. When recess mounting you slide frame on--that's a lot of open area that otherwise wouldn't get sealed if just caulking face when installing. Wow-should be like step 3, caulk back of flange to holder BEFORE mounting.

    Anyway, entire perimeter needs to caulked where flange meets body, From the back, PRIOR to installing on wall. I guess it's that 'read thru all instruction before starting thing :)
    End of FYI

    Meantime; the voice of reason 'suggested' the water pump switch inside was fine, You don't need to move them. (think ObiWan) Yes-the switches are fine where they are, I don't need to move them.
    So cleaned up the hole edges. Ran a bead of silicone around top and sides of hole in wall. Then applied a bead to the top and sides of T/P holder flange. Pressed into place and screwed it down. Snug the screws- it would be very easy to crack the ABS flange, or, as soft as the ABS plastic is, to drive the screws right thru the plastic. Cleaned up excess caulking then cleaned and waxed the fiberglass.

    Nice. There are some small plugs that cover the screw holes, not sure I want to use. If for any reason T/P holder needs removeal you'd destroy plugs getting out. Plus the larger screws I used head is slighter larger so plugs wouldn't set flush.

    I have some snap on plastic covers for hex heads so once silicone sets I'll swap out the screws. I half expected to split the plastic flange corners using the countersunk screws. Washer head hex screws, or any surface round/truss head screw a better choice. Clamping the plastic verses outward pressure created by countersunk head. Wonder how many folks crack these. All for the sake of 'hidden' screws. Round to it.

    Well that didn't work. Screw holes are to close to edge so caps hung out over edge. Ended up using supplied plugs but inserted upside down. As they wont set flush, inserted with the round edge out, inserted side is flat. That works..I'm done.

    Removed the original roll holder. Since I'm hear going to finally fix door. It has always rubbed on bottom, you can see scraped off powder coat, hinge was simply mounted too low. Its riveted to frame and door. Ended up pulling the pin from piano hinge to separate door from frame. Taking door to shop drilled out the rivets holding hinge leave. Redrilled the door moving hing about 3/16", re-riveted hinge leaf. It raises door 3/16". Used some bars keeper to clean then waxed. Reinstall sliding pin back in hinge. Gosh door doesn't rub...

    All in all one of those projects should have done a long time ago. In use this will be a lot more convenient. Also have full access thru door into cabinet. I assume, as the wind up action of the lid is a bit umm inconsistent in delivery- lid will only get fully closed when showering and on the road. Other wise when camped lid will sit half way. Allow use of paper as a standard holder while keeping paper dry from splashes etc. being so close to sink.

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